Notting Hill Kitchen

tytania
Tue, 09 Sep 2014 18:30:06 +0000
Food Diary, London, Restaurant Reviews

Portugal is probably best known food-wise for its grilled sardines on thick crusty peasant bread and Bacalau, the famous salt cod that warms the hearts of the entire Portuguese Nation. But the food is all very simple, with very little extras, and very low on spices. Luis Baena changes all that in his new restaurant, Notting Hill Kitchen, taking Portuguese Cuisine to an entirely new level.

Each dish I have tried has been none less than excellent. Some of them are very unusual and admittedly a little fussy, but I don’t mind this when it all comes together as it does. There are so many beautiful combinations in his food, like a symphony of flavors as you drive through the menu. There are influences from Peru, Spain, Japan…Baena is creative and artistic in his vast array of flavor profiles. The only odd thing I found in all of this was the lack of Vinho Verdi, THE most famous Portugeuse wine variety (if there is one). It would kind of be like going to an Italian Restaurant and they have no Chianti. But the wine list is nice, if a little expensive, and in both of my visits we were pleased with our selection.

The room is very elegant and airy, with tasteful fat stripes of neutrals spanning from wall to ceiling. The atmosphere is sexy and muted, making everyone look just a little bit better. The bar is also a lovely place to sit and have a few tapas, as they have these great tall tables and chairs that make everything seem less formal and relaxed, like eating at the bar can do. The manager, Alessio, is a lovely host, carefully taking care of each table with a sort of respect and attention to detail that makes one feel coddled.

The Octopus Ceviche is soft, elegant, and complex, as is the Octopus Main, with two beautiful little legs propped up by delicate baby cabbage leaves and a gentle potato puree. Simple but interesting. There is a beautiful Pink Swordfish dish that is perfectly smoked and enhanced with Miso and a crunchy creamy al dente rice that is texturally mouthwatering.The Dorset Oyster Croquettes sound very odd, but they are truly sophisticated little pockets of creamed velvety oysters and some sort of potato, and there is a beautiful little basil dressing that sort of livens everything up. The Sea Bass Ceviche is also a little gem, with Peruvian flavors sort of weaving through it. Even the cheesecake we had was very special, although also complex. It was mild and neutral, almost like a palette cleanser, with a tiny little spoonful of lovely soft vanilla ice cream on the side. All of the dishes are quite stunning to look at as well, artfully put together so each dish feels very special, like opening a beautifully wrapped gift.

The portions are quite lean, but I respect this and understand it in that the dishes are quite complex and perhaps too much of it on one plate sort of ruins its elegance and refinement and makes it seem clunky and odd. But I do think one needs to order several dishes in order to make up for this.

I really love this place, everything was done with a lot of style, grace, and flair. I am extremely pleased to have a new Portuguese spot so close to my flat, and one that is this good is really a treasure.